restaurant of the week
Chef Delio Larrañaga directs the work on the grill and bets on specimens with careful food
After a short time closed at the end of the property’s relationship with the previous person in charge of the restoration, the owner of the restaurant, Juan Carlos Díez, has again taken control of the Puerto de la Población, where his magnificent facility was. stand out with space for more than 300 diners and their view of the Ebro lagoon. And for this new phase that started shortly before the summer, Juan Carlos has trusted the chef Delio Larrañaga, a natural professional from Azcoitia, with a long time. professional career, who worked with Luis Irízar in Madrid and already knows the house from previous levels.
Juan Carlos wants to restart the port “and for people to enjoy the place and the food” and for this he has put all the means to make the experience very satisfying: good regional, national and imported meat, maturing chambers and a group of more than a dozen people. For its part, Delio, in addition to creating a traditional cuisine that is palatable to all types of palates, has decided to strengthen its commitment to grilled meat by purchasing samples from different suppliers, both from the region and from neighboring regions.
Juan Carlos Diez and Delio Larrañaga. /
The meat, at one time
Delio, when he talks about the meat he wants to work with, shows experience and criteria. Here, although they work with different breeds (friesian, simmental, tudanca, hereford, galician blond…), feeding the specimen is a priority. Delio says, “There is no good or bad breed, cattle are what they eat. If the cattle have not been bred well, the breed is the same. The necessary steps are that the sample has a certain age, as it emphasizes the taste; constantly at the right time so that it becomes a body, makes fat; and matures properly to a certain extent. I favor, at most, 40-45 days for a good cow».
And the chef continues to share his knowledge: “If the cow is not good, it is necessary to extend the maturation. It is necessary to examine the spine, the outer layer of fat is a good sign that it has gained weight properly, that it has been fed well. The cage helps tenderize the meat as the animal does not exercise its muscles”.
In addition, the ripening chambers allow the natural decay process to be adapted to humidity and cold. Delio believes that this effect needs to be carefully controlled, as excessive aging means that the meat dehydrates and loses liquid, hence the juiciness and harsh taste.
Menus and letters
The restaurant has a daily menu of 24 euros, with seven starters and seven seconds; with a special weekend menu of €29; and with a steak menu, designed for two, consisting of a mixed salad, A1 quality beef steak weighing between 1.3 and 1.4 kg, with a side of chips, roasted peppers and mushrooms, homemade desserts and a bottle of Rioja cr., water from Corconte, coffee and shots. The price, 44 euros per person.
On the menu, before deciding on meat… or fish, there is a wide list of suggestions, among which perhaps the most original is escalivada on puff pastry with smoked sardines and a touch of black garlic ali oli . More classics in this section are the squid rings, homemade Iberian ham croquettes, Burgos pudding with peppers, salads, Iberian cured meats, grilled prawns, garlic prawns, Galician-style octopus, anchovies or torreznos.
A selection of fish also goes through the grill that Delio runs himself for those who want something other than meat. The fish of the day is offered, such as sea bass and turbot. In addition, there is also cod Rioja style or pil pil and lighting filled with changurro with American cream.
As already pointed out, meat is the epitome of this business. Sirloin, entrecôte, Iberian secret, PGI ‘Tierra de Sabor’ lamb chops and steak, the star dish of the house, are prepared on the grill. A previous order is also prepared roast lamb from Burgos with the PGI quality seal.
A specialized kitchen with the scope of Puerto de la Población cannot disappoint with the desserts, mainly sweets. There is everything from fried milk to homemade cheesecake, chocolate coating with crème anglaise, chocolate brownie with cheese ice cream, a selection of artisan ice cream from Campoo (Las Nieves), apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and housewife with ice cream. .
Campo de Yuso
The Port of the People Restaurant
Address: The population (Campoo de Yuso).
Telephone: 942 77 84 94.
Owner: Juan Carlos Diez Santiago.
Initiated: 17 years ago.
Chef: Delio Larranaga.
Room manager: Roy Cabrera.
Kitchen style: Traditional, barbecue.
Average price of the letter: Between 40 and 50 euros.
Daily menu: 24 euros.
Steak menu: 44 euros.
Special weekend menu: 29 euros.
Qualifications: More than 300 guests, in six rooms.
Schedule: From 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. It only provides food service. Kitchen hours from 1:30pm to 5:00pm.
Basement: About 40 references.
Parking: Yes, have.